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If you're a forgetful waterer, avoid direct sunlight costs - the combination of too little soil moisture and intense rays will quickly lead to a miserable plant. If, however, you can provide good soil moisture throughout the year, an hour of either morning or evening sun will significantly benefit the Rose. Never situate this plant in a shady spot; if you're worried about its location being too dark, if a newspaper can be read while having your back towards the light source, you're good to go.
We'd recommend your Rose within two metres of a north-facing window if you tend to under-water plants. A metre away from an east or west-facing windowsill is the ideal location for good quality growth over the year, but be cautious of under-watering from the sunlight and higher temperatures. Never situate a Rose in full sun, or a location that'll exceed the maximum temperature bracket of 25ºC (77ºF) - an example of this would be a south or east-facing conservatory.
Persistent droughts must be avoided at all costs due to a Rose's poor ability to cope with dry conditions. Allow the top third of the soil to dry in between waters, reducing this slightly further in the autumn and winter. Whilst the plant is in bloom, it's important not to use cold water as this will quickly shock the roots, causing multiple issues down the line. Under-watering symptoms include rapid flower loss and dry, sunken leaves; these issues are usually due to either forgetfulness, too much sunlight or heat. Introduce a watering-schedule to avoid future dehydration issues. Over-watering symptoms include rotting lower leaves, heavy or mouldy soil, yellowing leaves, a loss of buds or flowers, and root rot. You must decrease your irrigation to avoid total plant collapse; scroll down to 'Common Issues' to learn more about root rot.
Create a humidity tray to provide a moist and stable environment for your plant. If the surrounding saturation is too low or the heat too high, its leaf-tips may start to brown over and curl, especially in direct sunlight. Gently hose the foliage down from time to time to hydrate the leaves and keep the dust levels down.
Use a fertiliser high in potassium to prolong its flowers during the festive period - an excellent example would be a Tomato Feed. Regular fertilisers, for instance, BabyBio or Miracle-Gro, will still do the job but will favour foliar growth instead. For the rest of the year, a standard fertiliser can be used to supplement the plant.
If your Rose has survived for more than a year - well done. Keeping these plants alive in a domestic environment is very difficult due to the unfavored growing conditions of low humidity and air circulation, less light and potential watering issues. Roses naturally flower in the spring and summer months, largely being benefited by a cool dormancy period in the previous winter.
They're better off staying pot bound for several reasons, including the prevention of root rot or transplant shock, and to put momentarily stress on the plant. Although this may sound harsh, a restriction of roots is the best way to obtain flowers, as it'll send out a spike in response to becoming under threat. As long as the plant is subsequently repotted tri-annually in the spring, no harm is done. The following steps should be done at the start of autumn until the end of winter when the plant's growth starts to slow down.
Be sure to provide a bright location with little to no direct sunlight. Although the winter rays won't necessarily hurt the plant, you can easily fall in the trap of sun-scorch and severe dehydration.
For the specimen to fully become seasoned, avoid the use of artificial lighting or locations that boast temperatures higher than 18℃ (64℉).
Reduce waters so that about half of the soil becomes dry. It's essential to keep them on the drier side to life, as they'll think that hard times are ahead and therefore will need to pass its genes on to the next generation.
While in bloom, use a Tomato fertiliser to provide monthly nourishment of potassium.
This one is to remind you that everything needs to be reduced - especially the temperature.
This is the most significant step; reduce the temperature down by around 5℃ compared to the summertime or place in a room that's around 15℃ (59℉). The drop in temperature should ideally last until the inflorescence finishes blooming, although it can still be transferred into the main house as long as it sits on a pebble tray. You'll be at a significant disadvantage if the ambient temperature is kept constant throughout the year, as Indoor Roses will only respond with flowers in cooled environments. Never exceed the minimum temperature as it could lead to plant death or yellowed foliage at a bare minimum.
Under-watering is the biggest issue when it comes to a Rose. Typical signs of this include wilting, sunken leaves, rapid flower or bud drop and stunted growth. Not only will you have to be mindful of persistent droughts, think about which plant parts to keep dry. Its foliage must also remain dry at all times to prevent the development of diseases and blights. Those situated in direct sunlight or within four metres of a radiator are more likely to suffer from under-watering related issues.
Too much sunlight will lead to sun scorch, with typical signs including browning or crispy leaves, dry leaf-edges, sunken leaves or stunted growth. Although too little light will cause over-watering issues, too much sunlight will be a detriment, too. Unfortunately, indoor Roses cannot tolerate more than two hours of direct sunlight a day, unlike their outdoor counterparts. If yours has fallen short of this, reduce the amount of sunlight considerably and always be mindful of environmental shock (when too locations offer too different growing conditions). Remove some of the affected leaves and increase waters slightly. Only hydrate the plant using the bottom-up method.
As mentioned before, powdery mildew and botrytis are major threats among heavy foliage plants due to the compact nature that aids the spread of the diseases. Watering above the foliage will allow excess moisture to sit in the cubbyholes of the stem, enticing harmful bacteria to thrive. Remove the affected areas and improve the growing conditions by situating the plant in a brighter location with the use of the bottom-up method of irrigation.
Never situate an Indoor Rose in more than two hours of direct sunlight or within four metres of an operating heat source, for instance, a radiator or fireplace. Due to the heightened temperature, the plant will soak up far more moisture than those situated in cooler locations, increasing the chance of droughts and inevitable death. This species cannot cope with persistent dry soil; you're skating on thin ice if an Indoor Rose starts to wilt.
Sudden flower loss can be caused by an array of different issues, including a change in location, too little hydration, too hot or cold temperatures or droughts and pests. Whilst the plant is in bloom, keep the soil evenly moist, to hydrate the thirsty work of producing flowers. Locations that are outside of the recommended temperature bracket, or have drastic fluctuations must also be kept off the cards, as Roses can be very sensitive to the ambient warmth that they're situated in. The final issue could be to do with pests. Although it's improbable that an infestation will cause a sudden change in health, have a quick inspection for Whitefly, Aphids and Mealybugs.
Pests could also be a primary issue, most notably being Whitefly and Mealybugs. Especially before purchasing, have a quick scan over the plant's foliage and flowers, inspecting its cubbyholes for those white critters. If your specimen has fallen foul of pests, click on the appropriate links to learn more about treatment, as well as observing their appearance.
There are at least three hundred species of Rose, with over two thousand cultivars and varieties across the world. The genus has natural distributions in at least five continents, most of which originate from Central Asia. Carl Linnaeus first described Rosa in the mid-eighteenth century during a visit to Asia, heavily mentioning their strong, intriguing fragrances. Roses has had many medicinal uses over the last few centuries, ranging from stomach illnesses to cancer growth control!
10° - 25°C (50° - 78°F)
H1c (Hardiness Zone 11) - Indoor Roses can be grown outdoors between late spring and summer throughout most of the UK while nighttime temperatures are above 8℃ (46℉). If you decide to bring the plant outdoors, don't allow it to endure more than an hour of direct sunlight a day as it may result in sun-scorch. Regularly keep an eye out for pests, especially when re-introducing back indoors.
Roses tend to thrive in cooler locations and will generally flower better if a good dormancy is served in winter when the temperature dips to around 14°C (57°F).
Up to 1m in height and 1m in width. The ultimate height will take between 4 - 6 years to achieve.
Remove yellow or dying leaves, and plant debris to encourage better-growing conditions. While pruning, always use clean utensils or shears to reduce the chance of bacterial and fungal diseases. Never cut through yellowed tissue as this may cause further damage in the likes of diseases or bacterial infections. Remember to make clean incisions as too-damaged wounds may shock the plant, causing weakened growth and a decline in health.
Prune your Rose by a third shortly after the flowering period to help promote a bushier appearance in the following year. This will also greatly help with the overall vigour of the plant and an enhanced chance of future blooms.
Via Seed or Stem Cuttings.
Stem & Eye Cuttings (Moderate) - This method of propagation is troublesome without the aid of bottom-heat and a controlled environment. Choose the healthiest, most established stems that are wooded, yet still juvenile enough to bend slightly, being just thicker than a phone charger wire. Each cutting should only have a few leaves leaf, above 8cm of semi-wooded stem. Situate the cutting's lower half into moist 'Houseplant' compost; 'Blackleg' can occur when the bottom wound becomes infected, resulting in propagation failure - typically caused by water-logging or deep damage. Maintain bright light and evenly moist soil with the avoidance of direct sunlight or cold draughts. Wrap the pot (& foliage) in a transparent bag or within a miniature greenhouse, and provide bottom heat of temperatures above 18°C (54°F). Remove the bag and place into individual 7cm pots once the second new leaf emerges. Follow the same care routines, as mentioned in the article's top half. This method will take up to five months, so patience and the correct environment are paramount for success!
Indoor Roses will flower from spring to late summer if grown correctly with a good dormancy served in the winter months. Each individual flower will last up to four weeks, with the overall show lasting up to ten weeks. Supplement the plant using a fertiliser high in potassium to prolong its flowers - 'Houseplant', 'Streptocarpus' or 'Tomato' labelled feeds are an excellent choice.
Repot biannually in spring using a 'Houseplant' labelled potting mix and the next sized pot with adequate drainage. Indoor Roses are far better potbound for several years due to the heightened risk of root rot and repotting-issues (like transplant shock), so only repot if you feel it's wholly necessary - restricted root growth will also increase the chance of blooms, too.
Hydrate the plant 24hrs before the tinkering with the roots to prevent the risk of transplant shock. For those situated in a darker location, introduce an extra amount of perlite and grit into the deeper portion of the pot to downplay over-watering risks. Click on this link for a detailed step-by-step guide on transplantation, or via this link to learn about repotting with root rot.
Book a 1-to-1 video call with Joe Bagley if you'd like a personal guide to repotting your houseplant. This will include recommending the right branded-compost and pot size, followed by a live video call whilst you transplant the specimen for step-by-step guidance and answer any further questions!
Keep an eye out for whitefly, spider mites, thrips, aphids & mealybugs. Common diseases with Roses are root or crown rot, powdery mildew, leaf-spot disease, botrytis petal blight and powdery mildew. For more info on how to address any of these issues, hit this link - Identifying Common Houseplant Viruses & Diseases.
This plant is slightly poisonous; if parts of the plants are eaten, vomiting, nausea and a loss of appetite could occur. Consumption of large quantities must be dealt with quickly - acquire medical assistance for further information.
Of course, as with almost all species of Rose, indoor varieties will develop sharp thorns along the wooded stems that can puncture one's skin. Always be mindful of where you put a Rose, as small children or animals may get attacked if they begin to play with it.
Some florists, garden centres & online stores will sell Roses readily throughout the year. A small selection of Roses are commonly sold during Christmas, but generally don't last as long as those sold earlier in the year. It's not advised to bring outdoor specimens inside as this could lead to environmental shock or the introduction of foreign pests into the home.
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