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A minimal amount of morning or evening sunlight is fantastic for Dischida. Specimens kept on a shelf where the soil line isn't in view of the natural light must follow the rule of 'near-drenches between droughts'. We'd recommend a windowsill, or nearby table is the perfect location for this plant, as a lack of natural light penetrating the soil's face may result in overly soggy soil. Bright, indirect location is still advised; however, you must keep on the drier side to avoid over-watering from its moisture-retentive leaves.
Soil - Those kept in the traditional pots must have the soil's top half to dry in between waters. To confirm that your specimen needs a water, feel the weight of the pot and if it still feels heavy, allow the pot to become slightly lighter before another hydration. It's always better to under-water Dischidia than over-do it, so if you're unsure as to when it needs a drink, leave it for another few days!
Sphagnum Moss - Always keep in mind the wet-dry cycle of caring for plants in Moss. It's highly detrimental to maintain moist or soggy Sphagnum for long periods, as it'll begin to rot and mush-away. Submerge the Moss (along with the plant) into a container of lukewarm tap water for five minutes once the Sphagnum feels dry to the touch.
Create a pebble tray to provide a moist and stable environment for your plant. If the surrounding saturation is too low or the heat too high, its juvenile leaves may start to brown over and curl, especially in direct sunlight. Gently hose the foliage down from time to time to hydrate the leaves and keep the dust levels down.
For those who have theirs in Moss, the Sphagnum will provide a reliable level of localised humidity, so a tray is not wholly needed.
Feed once a month using a 'houseplant' labelled fertiliser, throughout the year. We'd recommend using a concentrated product that can be applied to the tap water when the specimen is needing a drink. If yours is in Moss, mix the fertiliser well into the container of water before submerging the plant for five minutes.
Root or leaf rot is a common issue among specimens sat in too dark environments with prolonged soil moisture. Symptoms include yellow or rotten leaves, mouldy soil/Moss, stunted growth and a rotten base resting against the soil or Moss. Take the plant out of the pot and inspect health below the compost line. If the roots sport a yellow tinge, you're good to go, but if they're brown and mushy, action must be taken immediately. More information about addressing root rot can be found on this link.
A lack of leaves on the soil's top could be the product of excess moisture settling on the foliage. Although watering from the top is best, it's recommended to use the bottom-up method if you're a messy waterer. For specimens that have a bare head, improve growing conditions by using this method and increasing the light levels and air circulation. Take vine cuttings to promote a bushier appearance above the soil line - scroll down to 'Propagation for more information. Finally, always remove yellowed or rotten debris from the soil as it could harbour both bacterial and fungal diseases which will continue the plant's decline.
Rotten or declining Sphagnum Moss is a common issue among growers. Although it's normal for the Sphagnum to depreciate with time, over-watering and/or a too shady location may speed up this process. Keep the medium on the drier side along with improving the air circulation. If the whole Moss has become rotten, scroll down to 'Repotting' for more information!
Too much sunlight will lead to sun scorch, with typical signs including browning or crispy leaves, dry leaf-edges, sunken leaves or stunted growth. Although too little light will cause over-watering issues, excess sunlight will be a detriment to the plant as well. If yours has fallen short of this, reduce the amount of the sun considerably and always be mindful of environmental shock (when two locations offer too different growing conditions). Remove some of the affected leaves and increase waters slightly.
Powdery Mildew and Southern Blight are major threats among heavy foliage plants when excess moisture is allowed to sit on compacted foliage. Remove the affected areas and improve the growing conditions by situating the plant in a brighter location and keeping the leaves dry.
Dischidia was first penned by Robert Brown in 1810, using the Greek word, dischides, to refer to the 'parted' or 'cleated' crowns. Others, however, feel that it acknowledges the Greek words dis and kichon ('two' and 'covering coat') that refers to the type species' appearance (Dischidia nummularia). The specific epithet of 'nummularia' can be translated from the Greek word for 'coin'. Dischidia, like Hoya, are part of the Apocynaceae family, offering similar characteristics in both appearance and natural distributions.
12° - 30°C (50° - 86°F)
H1b (Hardiness Zone 12) - Can be grown outdoors during the summer in a sheltered location with temperatures above 12℃ (54℉), but is better to remain indoors, too. If you decide to bring this plant outdoors, don't allow it to endure any direct sunlight as it may result in sun-scorch and dehydration. Regularly keep an eye out for pests, especially when re-introducing it back indoors.
Up to 1m in vine length and 0.3m in width, with the ultimate height being reached in 5 - 8 years. Expect around 5 - 10cm (2 - 3.5 inches) of new growth per season.
Remove yellow or dying leaves, and plant debris to encourage better-growing conditions. While pruning, always use clean utensils or shears to reduce the chance of bacterial and fungal diseases. Never cut through yellowed tissue as this may cause further damage in the likes of diseases or bacterial infections. Remember to make clean incisions as too-damaged wounds may shock the plant, causing weakened growth and a decline in health.
Via Seed or Vine Cuttings.
Dischidia will produce small clusters of white flowers along the vines' nodes, lasting up to a week once opened. To aid the chance of a summer bloom, reduce the amount of waters considerably, and dip the nighttime temperatures to around 15⁰C (64⁰F) in the previous winter months. The combination of drying soil, shorter days and cold nights will give the plant a dormancy period, which is vital for flower growth in the following season.
Repot every two or three years in spring using a Cactus labelled potting mix and the next sized pot with adequate drainage. Dischidia are far better potbound for several years due to the heightened risk of root rot and repotting-issues (like transplant shock), so only repot if you feel it's wholly necessary - restricted root growth will also increase the chance of blooms, too.
Hydrate the plant 24hrs before the tinkering with the roots to prevent the risk of transplant shock. For those situated in a darker location, introduce an extra amount of perlite and grit into the deeper portion of the pot to downplay over-watering risks. Click on this link for a detailed step-by-step guide on transplantation, or via this link to learn about repotting with root rot.
Keep an eye out for spider mites, mealybugs, whitefly, root mealybugs, scale & thrips. Typical diseases associated with this genus are leaf-spot disease, botrytis, powdery mildew & root rot. Click here for more information about how to identify and address any of these issues.
This plant is classified as poisonous. If parts of the plants are eaten, vomiting, nausea and a loss of appetite could occur. Consumption of large quantities must be dealt with quickly; acquire medical assistance for further information. Its sap may cause irritation on the skin of sensitive people.
If you need further advice with indoor gardening, never hesitate to send us a message or leave a comment in the section below. This could be about your own specific plant, transplantation into a bigger pot, pests or diseases, terrarium ideas, & more!