Monstera Adansonii + Obliqua

Monstera adansonii  (Monkey-Mask Plant)

Contents

1. Top Tips
2. Location, Water, Humidity & Fertilisation
3. Common Issues
4. Mosaic Virus (Symptoms, Causes & Actions Needed)
5. Origins, Temperature, Propagation, Repotting & Toxicity

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Top Tips & Info

• Care Difficulty - Very Easy
• The amount of light and current season of the year will directly govern the frequencies of waters per month. Specimens placed in darker areas must be kept on the drier side to life, whereas brighter locations will require more soil moisture to lubricate photosynthesis. 
• Provide a bright, indirect location with either morning or evening sun for a few hours in the height of autumn and winter. Avoid excessively dark sites to decrease the chance of root rot, as well as leggy growth.
• Keep the soil evenly moist, allowing the top third to dry out in between waters. Avoid over-watering in the autumn and winter months.
• Fertilise using a 'Houseplant' labelled feed every third water in the spring and summer, reducing this to every fourth in the colder months (mid autumn to late winter).
• Repot every three years using a 'Houseplant' labelled potting mix in the spring; saturate the soil 24hrs before the action to reduce the risk of transplant shock. Scroll down to the 'Repotting' section to learn more about repotting a specimen that's attached to a moss pole.
• Why not buy our premium Monstera Potting Mix here? We have sold over 3,000 batches in the last year alone, so click here to find out more...
• This article is suitable for all varieties of Monstera adansonii, including variegated specimens!

Location & Light - 🔸🔸

A brightly lit spot with little to no sunlight is best for quality growth, as excessive exposure can cause the plant to adopt a ‘washed-out’ look, accompanied by stunted growth. Darker locations that offer no sufficient light are also detrimental due to the increased chance of over-watering and possible death.

In terms of a location, anywhere that is at least four metres away from direct light, and an operating heat source (i.e. a radiator or fireplace) is acceptable. Although a bathroom would be the perfect fit for a Monstera, you can still situate it on a shelf that offers bright, indirect light to promote a 'trailing' appearance. It's recommended to place an M. obliqua in a humid location to avoid the browning of leaf-tips.

Water - 🔸🔸🔸

Persistent droughts should undoubtedly be off the cards as these species cannot tolerate dry conditions. During the spring and summer, allow around the soil's top third to become dry in between irrigations, reducing this further in the cooler months. Those grown in darker locations will require fewer waterings, compared to those that are situated in brighter light levels. Never pour cold water straight into the soil as this will shock the roots, potentially resulting in stunted growth. Under-watering symptoms include yellowed and browned foliage, crispy leaves and possible curling. These are usually a sign of apparent neglect or too much direct sunlight; however, transplant shock looks mostly similar to these symptoms, so be sure to repot with care. Over-watering symptoms include rapidly yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and stem collapse. If the base of the stem is beginning to rot, take stem cuttings and propagate via water.

Humidity - 🔸🔸🔸

Normal room conditions are acceptable for M. adansonii, but introduce a pebble tray to maintain a constant level of humidity. For M. obliqua, however, atmospheric saturation is more of a necessity; either mist the foliage several times a week or introduce a humidity tray to create a stable environment.

Fertilisation - 🔸🔸

Feed every third water during the growing period and every fourth water from mid autumn to late winter, using a 'Houseplant' labelled fertiliser. Never apply a 'Ready to Use’ product into the soil without a pre-water first, as it may burn the roots and lead to yellowed leaves.

There are subtle differences between the Monstera adansonii and Monstera obliqua, with the latter having larger holes and a slightly thinner leaf-thickness. Plant: Monstera obliqua.

Common Issues with Monstera

Root rot is a common issue with specimens sat in too moist or waterlogged soil for long periods. Symptoms include rapidly yellowing leaves, stunted growth and a rotten brown base. Take the plant out of the pot and inspect health below the soil line. If the roots sport a yellow tinge, you're good to go, but if they're brown and mushy, action must be taken immediately. More information about addressing root rot can be found on this link.

Mould developing on the soil means two things - too little light and over-watering. Despite the harmlessness of the mould, it'll prove unsightly to most gardeners and is therefore removed once known. To remove, replace the top two inches of the soil for a fresh batch of 'Houseplant' labelled compost. Either increase the amount of light received (no direct sunlight for the first few weeks to prevent environmental shock) or decrease the frequency of waters slightly. If the mould is accompanied by yellowing lower leaves, you may also have a case of root rot.

Short brown bumps on your plant's vines are dormant root nodes that'll spring into life when exposed to moisture. In the wild, these root nodes will emerge and stick onto the nearest tree or structure, allowing the plant to reach the tree's canopy in record time.  

Is your Monkey Mask Plant producing smaller leaves or just naked, leggy stems each time it grows? It's most likely to do with its light levels or low temperatures. We recommend improving its location by placing it in a sunless windowsill or under a grow light for better, more reliable growth. You can also consider pruning any leggy, leafless stems back to the first leaf to promote a new cluster of foliage in months to come. Other reasons for its reduction of leaf size could be: an absence of a moss pole or plant to climb up, a lack of fertilisation and/or root rot.

Curled leaves and brown leaf-edges are the result of too little water and over-exposure to the sun. Monstera are best located in bright, indirect settings, and those that haven't acclimatised to the harsh rays will show signs of sun-scorch and environmental shock. A splash of winter sunlight is acceptable as long as the soil moisture is regularly observed, with complete avoidance once summer comes along.

If your Monstera has lost leaves in a certain area of its stem (or is growing long stems with no leaves), this is to do with too little light. Consider pruning the stem(s) back to promote a bushier appearance and propagate the cuttings in water. Transplant them into the original plant's soil once the roots are 5cm (2 inches to further thicken the overall foliage. 

Spider Mites are small, near-transparent critters, that'll slowly suck out the chlorophyll out of the leaves. Have a check under the leaves, most notably along the midrib, for small webs and gritty yellow bumps. Click here to read our article about the eradicating Spider Mites, along with some extra tips that you may not find elsewhere!

Too low humidity can cause browning leaf tips with yellow halos. Although this won't kill your specimen, you may want to increase the local moisture to prevent the new growth from adopting these symptoms. Mist or rinse the foliage from time to time and create a humidity tray whilst the heaters are active to create a stable environment for your specimen. See image below. 

Irregular watering or dry air may cause the juvenile growths to crisp up before maturity. 

Rapidly yellowing lower leaves (closest to soil) are a clear sign of over-watering, usually caused by too little light. Although they can do well in darker locations, the frequency of irrigations must be reduced to counteract the chance of root rot. People don't realise that a plant's root system needs access to oxygen too; when soil is watered, the air will travel upwards and out of the potting mix. A lack of accessible oxygen for the roots will cause them to subsequently breakdown over the oncoming days. Click on this link to learn more about root rot and how to address it, and always feel the pot's weight for confirmation (heaviness = good soil moisture, & vice versa).

The browning of the cataphyll (sheath) is a natural process which affects all specimens across the world. Remove the brown section once it becomes dry and crispy, using a clean pair of scissors or peeling it back by hand.

Failed propagated stem cuttings - There are several reasons why the cuttings haven't rooted well, including: the time of year (spring or summer is best), its size (Monstera cuttings should have at least three leaves), poor growing conditions (replace water weekly for water-propagated cuttings, and avoid over-watering for soil-grown plants), and its growing environment (a bright sunless windowsill and warmth is important).

Mosaic Virus

Symptoms - This virus is most likely to attack Aroids like Monstera and Philodendrons, causing small, yellow lesions or patterns to on the leaves. At first, symptoms look similar to a nutrient deficiency or over-exposure to the sunlight, but as conditions worsen, you'll eventually find colonies of deeper affected areas.

Case Study 1

Case Study 2

Causes - The virus is usually pre-existent within the plant's cellular make-up, but some cases may arise from neighbouring plants. Other reasons include the multi-use of pruning scissors without being washed in between utilisation, re-using old potting mix, and pests that may spread from plant to plant, thus taking the virus with them.

Action Needed

1. Inspect and remove any seriously-affected areas with a clean pair of scissors. Be sure to thoroughly wash the utensil afterwards with hot soapy water to avert a spread.  
2. Take the plant outside and perform a gentle hose-down. Although this won't directly remove the disease, it'll remove the thin layer of dust that will increase photosynthesis and therefore energy production. Repeat this step monthly.
3. Cast an eye over the plant for further development, removing any affected areas or fallen debris as you go.
4. Quarantine the specimen at least 50cm (almost 2ft) from other plants and try to segregate accessories (watering cans, etc.).
5. Unfortunately, there are no known products that can wholly remove this disease. It'll be highly unlikely to eradicate this problem, so keeping maintained control and regular feeds will help contain the disease. 
6. Feed using a nitrogen-based fertiliser ('Houseplant' labelled feed) to help the development of new, disease-free growth. This will help the production of photosynthesis that'll promote stored energy within the plant, thus giving it the best chance of survival. If you have a newly-purchased specimen, be sure to contact the store or grower to make them aware of the virus, as this is most likely affecting other customers.

Want to train yours up a moss pole? Our Moss Pole Hooks are the perfect tool to keep your specimen growing the way it should! Click here to shop:

Origins

Monstera form part of the Araceæ family that holds genera such as Spathiphyllum (Peace Lilies), Alocasia and Zamioculcas (ZZ plants) with natural distributions across tropical America. The name, Monstera, derives from Latin word for 'monstrum', referring to the size some specimens can grow to (20m). Monstera adansonii is named after French botanist, Michel Adanson, who conducted most of his work in the latter stages of the eighteenth-century. This species was first found in 1693 by a French botanist who took many drawings back of the unusual find. It was only in the 19th century that the species was correctly placed in the genus of Monstera, due to the similar characteristic between it and Philodendrons.

Why Does the Monstera have Fenestrations? (Holes in its Leaves)

Although the leaf structures aren't fully understood, many lean on the idea that the serrations and fenestrations (holes) can alleviate the effects of hurricanes or high winds. The smaller surface area of the leaf reduces the effects of air resistance created by the wind, thus resulting in less damage during windy spells. Others argue it's a natural mechanism to help the leaf remain cool during sunny spells, as fenestrations only occur once the plant reaches a certain height/maturity (the taller the stem, the more exposure to the sunlight, etc.).

Green: Distribution of M. adansonii.   Purple: Distribution of M. adansonii & M. obliqua.

Temperature

12° - 30°C   (54° - 86°F)
H1b  (Hardiness Zone 12)  - Can be grown outdoors during the summer in a sheltered location with temperatures above 12℃  (54℉),  but is fine to remain indoors, too. If you decide to bring this plant outdoors, don't allow it to endure any direct sunlight as it may result in sun-scorch and dehydration. Regularly keep an eye out for pests, especially when re-introducing it back indoors.

Spread

Up to 4m in height or width when grown indoors. The ultimate height will take between 5 - 10 years to achieve, with up to 40cm of growth put out each season. Monstera that naturally grow in the wild can reach heights of up to fifteen metres; however, with smaller root systems and less favourable growing conditions, they'll only grow to five metres, give or take.

Pruning & Maintenance

Remove yellow or dying leaves, and plant debris to encourage better-growing conditions. While pruning, always use clean scissors or shears to reduce the chance of bacterial and fungal diseases. Never cut through yellowed tissue as this may cause further damage in the likes of diseases or bacterial infections. Remember to make clean incisions as too-damaged wounds may shock the plant, causing weakened growth and a decline in health.

Although the aerial roots aren't exactly appealing, you mustn't remove them as this can stress the plant and potentially weaken it.

Propagation

Via Seed or Stem Cuttings. 

Stem Cuttings via Water Propagation (Easy)

1. Choose the healthiest, most established vines. This propagation method can be taken from spring to summer, using between two to five leaves, with the vine being at least 8cm (2.5 inches) in length with two nodes (one for foliar development and the other for root growth). Although more nodes are fine, be sure only to submerge the bottom ones in water to avoid unneeded rooting elsewhere on the stem. (More on this later)
2. Cut directly below a node using a clean knife to reduce bacteria count. Remove the lower half of the leaves and place the vines into a container of lukewarm water. Be sure to submerge at least one node into the water, or else the root development will be hindered.
3. The leaves must stay above the waterline for the prevention of disease.
4. Replace the water weekly, using lukewarm water to avert shocking the cutting with cold temperatures. 
5. Once the roots surpass 4cm (2 inches) in length, it's time to pot the cutting.
6. Choose a potting mix - as long as it has a well-draining nature, most soils are fine. Either 'Houseplant' labelled compost or our Monstera Potting Mix is suitable for potting up.
7. Use a 7cm (2 inch) plastic or coir pot that has suitable drainage holes. Try not to transplant the cuttings too deeply in the soil as rot may occur.
8. Fill the bottom quarter of the pot with soil, before sitting the cutting on top. Fill the remaining gaps with compost until the soil line reaches four-fifths of the pot's height. Lightly tap the pot's side to consolidate the soil into place. (Don't press down on the soil!)
9. Provide bright, indirect light in a windowsill or under a grow light, along good humidity by placing the potted plant into a transparent plastic bag for the first couple of weeks. 
10. Open the bag every two days for an hour for the prevention of disease. After a month of being placed in soil, remove it from the bag and follow the care tips provided above.

Pictured here is a node that can produce a new branch of foliage and aerial roots to start off the propagation process.

Stem Cuttings via Soil Propagation (Moderate)

This second option is still easy to perform, but it'll need some extra steps to avoid dehydration while the cutting roots in the soil.

1. Choose the healthiest, most established vines. This propagation method can be taken from spring to summer, using between two to five leaves, with the vine being at least 8cm (2.5 inches) in length with two nodes (one for foliar development and the other for root growth). Although more nodes are fine, be sure only to submerge the bottom ones in water to avoid unneeded rooting elsewhere on the stem. (More on this later)
2. Cut directly below a node using a clean knife to reduce bacteria count. Remove the lower half of the leaves and place the vines into a container of lukewarm water. Be sure to submerge at least one node into the soil, or else the root development will be hindered.
3. Choose a potting mix - as long as it has a well-draining nature, most soils are fine. Either 'Houseplant' labelled compost or our Monstera Potting Mix is suitable for potting up.
4. Use a 7cm (2 inch) plastic or coir pot that has suitable drainage holes. Try not to transplant the cuttings too deeply in the soil as rot may occur.
5. Fill the bottom quarter of the pot with soil, before sitting the cutting on top.
6. Fill the remaining gaps with compost until the soil line reaches four-fifths of the pot's height. Lightly tap the pot's side to consolidate the soil into place. The leaves must always stay above the soil-line for the prevention of disease.
7. Provide bright, indirect light in a windowsill or under a grow light, along good humidity by placing the potted plant into a transparent plastic bag for the first couple of weeks. Humidity will be your cutting's best friend, so ensure the plant doesn't dehydrate because of dry air. 
8. Open the bag every two days for an hour for the prevention of disease. After a month of being placed in soil, remove it from the bag and follow the care tips provided above.

Flowers

As Monstera are part of the Araceæ family, they'll produce toxic flowers that can be boiled and ate once ripe. Despite its readiness to flower in the wild, those grown domestically will rarely flower due to the unfavoured growing conditions. Its inflorescences bare large similarities to Peace Lilies, with a modified leaf (spathe) circulating around the site of pollination (spadix).

Repotting

Repot every three years using a 'Houseplant' labelled compost and the next sized pot with adequate drainage. Hydrate the plant 24hrs before tinkering with the roots to prevent the risk of transplant shock. For those that are situated in a darker location, add a thin layer of small grit in the pot's base to improve drainage and downplay over-watering. Click here for a detailed step-by-step guide on transplantation, or via this link to learn about repotting with root rot.

If you're thinking of repotting a specimen that's growing up a moss pole, never remove the attached aerial roots as the disturbance could put further stress on the plant. Extend by purchasing another same-sized pole and pushing directly into the hollow hole in the original's top - its moss-like material may have to be cut off from the top to access the hollow centre. Get a long, sturdy stick that has a similar length to the two poles combined and place in the two's centre to support the weight. Always perform the repot BEFORE adding another pole, as it'll prove more challenging due to the weight distribution and overall balance. NEVER remove soil from the roots, or over-touch the root system, as this will cause transplant shock and possible death.

Pests & Diseases

Keep an eye out for mealybugs, spider mites, scale, thrips & whitefly that'll locate themselves in the cubbyholes and undersides of the leaves. Common diseases associated with Monstera are root rot, red leaf-spot, botrytis & southern blight - click here to learn more about these issues. 

Toxicity

This plant is classified as poisonous due to varying concentrations of calcium oxalate crystals found around the plant's body. If parts of the plants are eaten, vomiting, nausea and a loss of appetite could occur. Consumption of large quantities must be dealt with quickly; acquire medical assistance for further information.

Retail Locations

Homebase,  B&Q,  IKEA,  Dobbies,  Blue Diamond,  Online Stores.

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